Islay of Scotch

View Islay for one night in a larger map

Bike camping! We finally made it out of town, after being here for a month, and braved the wind and rain to do some whiskey tasting on the Isle of Islay (pronounced eye-luh).

Joshua and the bikes - loaded. We didn't take everything. In fact I forgot some important stuff, like my sarong aka the towel and the scarf I use as a pillow case. Bummer. Oh well, not a big trip really.

Just two ferries. The first was a tiny thing. Not sure what the new camera was focused on in this photo...

But they had a bar and ropes just so we could tie up the bikes.

And the second was a bit bigger. We were early and spent some time in the ferry terminal where we met a group of Rabbis who were going on their 10th annual Whiskey tour. They were from all over (London, Scotland, Los Angeles, etc) and were quite curious about our cycling adventure. We also met a fellow cyclist waiting in the Kennacraig terminal, on a solo trip through the Hebrides of Scotland. Hugh, age 70, got a rare photo of the two of us as we came into the Sound of Jura.

And here's Jura itself, the mountains are called the Paps of Jura.

But we didn't go to that island, we went to Islay, right next door. Islay is most famous for the Scotch Whiskies Laphroaig and Bowmore, but there are a total of eight distilleries on the island, and one on Jura.

What they say about the islands is that you never know what the weather will be like, except that it's going to be windy. And windy it was. We managed to avoid getting rained on, just barely, but there was nothing to do but fight through the wind all the way to the campsite. We managed to convince Hugh to join us at Port Mor, just past Port Charlotte, especially after he found out there was no food at the campsite he had planned to stay at. We had some insider information from some locals who said Port Charlotte is the nice place to go - so we went west and got pounded by the wind.

Just as the rain started to fall, we approached the town of Bruichladdich, where I knew there was a distillery to visit. Joshua stopped, thinking we'd put on some rain gear. I convinced him and Hugh to go on another few hundred feet, until we reached the distillery, where we were met by walls of Scotch. After the beating we'd taken from the wind, a wee dram was just what we needed. We tasted something old and something older. It was all delicious. Hugh mailed home a bottle and we decided we'd come back again the next day.

Once the rain stopped, we went outside to a beautifully sunny and quiet day. The change in weather was unbelievable, especially the lack of wind that we were met with. We made it the extra 3 miles or so to the campsite and got set up just as the wind started to blow again. Apparently some folks had broken a tent pole the night before, so everyone was camped behind the fence. We followed suit, although it meant sleeping on a slant.

Here's Hugh and his amazing solo set up:

We set up shortly afterward, and we decided to walk back down the road to the town of Port Charlotte for dinner at the Port Charlotte Hotel - which was fabulous. Of course, while we had dinner it rained and the wind was crazy. And when we were walking back to the camp the weather was threatening but not wet.

Joshua and I had thought to stay a second night, after spending Tuesday riding around without gear, tasting whiskies. But due to the intense wind, we decided to ride east and not bother coming west at the end of the day again. We visited Bruichladdich again, to taste the rum cask whiskey and the organic whiskey, and we bought a small bottle of the organic to take with us. We also ran into the gaggle of Rabbis who we'd met on the ferry. They had just completed the tour and were thrilled to see us again. Rabbi Ari from London asked that we take some photos with him. He even got on my bike and rode around the parking lot. Impressive, considering it wasn't quite his size.

We then decided that instead of another wild night of wind and rain, we'd catch the afternoon ferry back and head home that night. So I took some pictures.

And we pedaled for all we were worth. Again avoiding rain, we made the ferry just before it started to come down again, but got some stunning views with the tail wind that took us there.

And again, when we arrived back in Tighnabruiach, we were in the house only a few minutes before it started raining. Then we got this amazing view of a sun dog out above the point.

new camera! office! view!

more soon...

mr. rogers spring

Now I understand why daffodils and lambs in green fields are emblematic of Easter. In the last three or four days I have seen more daffodils and lambs than I think I've seen in the rest of my life. I can practically see the hills on the Isle of Bute, across the Kyles of Bute, turning green. Each day is less brown, more blindingly green. We can sit and watch the rain come across the water, greying the view of the farms and hills. Then the sun comes burning out again. Of course the grass is turning green.

The coast here has about a nine foot tide, the water moving in and out with barely any waves. Farther towards the ocean, the wind is creating whitecaps. But here the water is clear. Tiny kelp islands are not waving. As clouds move overhead the surface of the water reflects silver and becomes opaque, and the room feels chill. Put on cardigan. Just as quickly the sun is back and the water is transparent again. Take off cardigan.

There's an old pier that becomes submerged at high tide.

There are no photos, due to no camera, so instead there will be maps.


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A few days ago we rode around the southern most part of the Cowal Peninsula. We had planned to go to Kames, where we'd heard there was a slightly larger store than the one down the street here in Tighnabruaich. I'm just barely able to say Tighnabruaich with a straight face. I feel the need to cringe because I am sure I'm butchering it.

Kames is very close, and the road keeps going along the water. Why not keep going? Eventually we turned inland to cross the peninsula, after going through the most beautiful sheep farm possible. Brand new lambs stumbling around on legs that are clearly too long, panting sheep lying in the grass about to have their own.

We kept going, and saw it was possible to make a loop. Everything is beautiful. The beer is inexpensive. We can walk past bustling downtown Tighnabruaich - post office, shops, cafes, store, and hotel - in less than 5 minutes. Town continues a bit farther, mostly homes and inns, all lined up along the road that follows the coastline.

Daffodils. So many daffodils. Everywhere. And in the forests just outside of town the ground is covered in moss, trickling with streams, and yellow flowers poke out in patches of sunlight.

To get out here we did this:


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The final climb up to 200m was long, but reasonable. Tomorrow, perhaps a day trip to Rothesay, on the Isle of Bute. Already ordered a camera.

- rolling post

Scotland no camera

The good news: we rode from Greenock to Tighnabruaich, about 30 miles with the shopping we did beforehand, and we were elated and exhausted when we finished. Apparently muscle memory is real, whether you break a foot or not. Riding a bicycle? F'ing awesome. And it is so beautiful here. Different from fjords and snow and Norway-beautiful. Spring is happening for real already and there are daffodils everywhere. Everywhere. Amazing.

I'd go ahead and post a photo of some daffodils, but it looks like my camera is gone. Yesterday we climbed some major 20% grade BS, then down, and then we climbed a more reasonable slope for a much longer period of time. Near the top is one of the best viewpoints in all of Europe - or so the locals say. After the day we had, I can say that arriving there I was stunned by the view. Just perfect. I'd already given up my bags to the manly man in our couple. That's right, Joshua went heroic and carried my bags, too. (Much of our gear will arrive by mail, so we were two bags each, therefore Joshua could take over mine). But upon arrival at such an amazing viewpoint, well... I took some photos. Of the two birds we have with us now. Cashmere Chicken has a friend, see post below entitled 'Stowaway'.

Alas, you'll not see that photo either. I'm pretty sure I left my camera at that very fine viewpoint. I am so certain that today I took a taxi up there to see if it was still sitting on the panorama interpretation table. No dice. I will check the hotel in town, in case someone heading this way saw it there and tried to return it. You never know. Meanwhile, sadly missing Norwegian buddies.

Not the best photo ever, but you get the idea. It's cold. There's a waterfall (rainbow included), and the very bright sun is shining in our eyes. Ah, well. Let's go see the waterfall from behind.

Caption for the above photo: "Man. That was a pretty good little camera. Crap."

Postcards galore. Point is... we'll be lonely here for the first little while. Or maybe it's that we'll appreciate the quiet and calm, no one to worry about but ourselves, simple meals, simple days - for a few days. And then we'll just be wishing for kids to wrestle with and make puzzles with and listen to. Where can we get some of those, anyway? Oh yeah.

We went from one very special household to another. Thanks to Norway and team Natalia for being just awesome. Now we have a beautiful little flat to keep warm on a... kyle? A kyle of Bute? Still getting used to the Scottish language. So far, I understand Norwegian children better than drunk Scottish students boozing on the train. What can you do? Buy a new camera. Maybe even a waterproof one this time.

Spring is on it's way and so are we

Well, it rained today. Really hard. And the snow is melting fast. There's still a lot of snow, but the roads are clear.

So out came the bikes!

We rode up and down the driveway, testing the bikes and ourselves. Everything seems to work okay! Brakes were a little squeaky at first, but that's to be expected.

And in a few days we'll leave our happy cozy Norwegian paradise. We are going to miss the warm, busy, cozy, full home here. Little monsters and elves running everywhere - laughing, crying, shrieking, hugging, smiling.

But the time has come, and our next destination is calling - we'll be house-sitting in Scotland until June 1st or so. Hopefully we'll do our share of small trips while we're there, just a bit west of Glasgow in a very tiny town. Then in June we'll bicycle our way through the UK, visiting our buddy Budge in Newcastle, and at some point we'll take a ferry to The Netherlands. Back to Amsterdam! Yay!

Stowaway

Somebody snuck into the bag before we left Monterey...

another day in the snow (before it started raining)

The snow is about half as tall as it was yesterday, at least at our altitude. I don't know if the scenery has changed up on the mountain, where we were yesterday.





Natalia, kids, Joshua and I made our way up to Fitjadalen, where there's that little hut by the lake... Yeah, it wasn't exactly easy access this time.






Climbed over the snow bank to...






A nice place for a fire...





It was pretty cozy.








Joshua did a lot of rolling around in the snow.









Then we went for a walk...




Jasmin gets towed on the sled. Joshua only ran her into the snow a few times.



Go to sleep little munchkins.

Demonstrating the height of the snow along the road - it's as tall as Joshua!








- rolling post

shoveling/weather report

I keep shoveling but the snow keeps falling!

a few days ago the snow was pretty deep. today we had scattered sunshine and we took a walk up the hill.










aaaaand... the view.


- rolling post

Enough Snow? No!

The snow situation here is awesome. Joshua and I went on a walk a couple of days ago, up the road, past where the tractor plow does not go.

obligatory icicles photo

Joshua rolled a giant snowball, but wouldn't roll it down the hill. We pushed it to the side.

obligatory moss shot?

The next day Anders took the kids skiing up on the neighboring mountain. There are cross-country loops, but the kids just went up and down a small hill for a while. Good views.

And maybe you're wondering just where our bicycles are? Well. They're here. Upstairs.

yesterday v. today

Yesterday we went out for another snow play day. It even snowed on us for a few minutes! Very exciting.









This morning we woke up to this:




That was hours ago. It's still snowing.







We love snow.

- rolling post